New Zealand Tour 2011/12 part 8

The west coast of the South Island is famous for its pristine scenery, comprising verdant rain forest, clean rivers, numerous lakes, rugged beaches, and one or two glaciers. All that coupled with the great NZ roads makes this one of the 5 star rides of the country.

An unseasonably cold morning of 10 degrees started the day in Wanaka. I mucked around taking pictures and exploring the town before leaving at about 10.30. My overnight stop was at Hotikita, famous for its jade and ruby rock art, about 420 k's away.

The road just north of Wanaka has you twisting and turning right along the west shore of lake Hawea, which in some places is cut into the side of the mountain. The mountains that surround the aquamarine lake are snow capped all year round, making for an incredible vista. This is pretty much par for the course in this part of the world. These lakes are filled by mountain streams which carry ground rock in suspension. This gives the water it's intense blue colour. Once you get to the end of lake Hawea, the road turns to the left for a couple of k's and you are then you are on the east shore of lake Wanaka and the whole process repeats.

There is something very special about riding your bike in such magnificent surroundings. It does things for the spirit.

Immediately after the lakes you go through spectacular Haast pass, with river crossing after waterfall after river crossing, as you wind your way to the coast. With so much rock in them, the rivers are mostly rapids and look icy cold -would be great for a Stolichniya Vodka advert!

The road hugs the coast with few straight stretches then you get to glacier country. The two small towns of Franz Josef and Fox Glacier both owe their existence to the throngs of tourists taking glacial excursions, mostly hiking, but there are other options. I watched at least 5 helicopters coming and going from the heliport at Franz Josef, which is just on the side of the road opposite the supermarket. I did not go out to the glacier this time. I have done it before and you need a couple of hours at least, but it is worth seeing.

So far, the FJR has been faultless. After a bad puncture last time I was here, I check the tires every day. This morning I pulled a shard of glass out of the rear tire. If you leave it in there, eventually it gets pushed all the way through and you are in the dwang.